Sailing in the Tuamotu Islands of French Polynesia is a unique experience where the beauty of the atolls and the tranquility of the sea create a memorable adventure. My journey began in Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas Islands and continued to the remote atolls of the Tuamotus. It was not easy because of the timing to in or out of the passes. But I made it!
Crossing from Nuku Hiva to the Tuamotus
The trip from Nuku Hiva to the first atoll in the Tuamotus took five days, covering a distance of 579 nautical miles. The winds on this passage are often stronger than expected, which required me to adjust my sails accordingly. Despite these challenges, I enjoy the tranquility of being at sea for an extended period. Reading and playing my ukulele while singing are pastimes that make the journey even more enjoyable.
Arrival at Tahanea Atol
My first atoll in the Tuamotus was Tahanea, and I had prepared for a relatively easy passage. Going through the pass to enter the atoll went smoothly. At the anchorage, I encountered many bommies or coral heads, which required me to float my chain to avoid entanglement. I was the only boat at the anchorage, a situation I found particularly special.
A Challenging Exit from Tahanea
Leaving the atoll was a tense moment. While waiting for the right time to exit, the current took control of my boat, making me go backwards at a speed of 0.9 knots despite the engine running at full power. It was a bit scary, but I eventually managed to exit safely.
Stay at Kauehi Atol
The second atoll I visited was Kauehi, where I sought refuge from strong winds of 30 knots. I tried to catch a mooring, but my hook got stuck in the mooring. Eventually, I anchored in the mooring field near the village. The wind was blowing so hard that I had to swim ashore with a bag containing my clothes, camera, and wallet. Five days later, another boat arrived and took me ashore with their dinghy. On this island, there was a supermarket but no fruits or vegetables.
Exploring Fakarava Atol
The third and final atoll of my journey was Fakarava. I had the opportunity to dive with sharks in the south pass, an incredible experience. I also had dinner with friends at Eliza’s and joined a barbecue with the local kite club.
The Challenges of Sailing in the Tuamotus
Sailing around the atolls of the Tuamotus presents unique challenges such as tides, currents, and coral heads. However, the beauty of the atolls and the isolated beaches make these challenges entirely worth it. It is a very special feeling to be in these remote places, surrounded by beautiful, untouched nature.
Sailing in the Tuamotus was an extraordinary adventure, filled with moments of tranquility, challenges, and natural beauty. It is an experience I will always cherish.
Bio
My name is Jacqueline Evers from The Netherlands. Solo sailing around the world in my 27 foot sloop. While my husband and son may have chosen a different path, their unwavering support fuels my solo pursuit of this lifelong dream.
Not confined by age or the constraints of conventional life, in my 50s, I bravely departed from the rat race, trading it for the serenity of the open sea. Through my unscripted videos and blogs, I offer a glimpse into the authentic tapestry of my sailing
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